15 Minutes: Meiling on Mentoring Anya
Tonight, when Heidi, Tim, Nina and Michael unveil another layer of their process to transform an unknown designer into a brand name, many viewers expect a challenge involving stilt walkers will be a cinch for Caribbean contender Anya Ayoung-Chee.
The skyscraping stilt walker, which originates from West Africa, is a traditional character known as the Moko Jumbie in Trinidad’s Carnival. Odds are in favor that Anya’s vision for styling that silhouette will knock it out the ballpark. Among those with high confidence is Meiling, the women’s wear designer who groomed Anya for her shot on Project Runway season 9.
Meiling, Tyson Beckford, Anya Ayoung-Chee. Photo: SeanDrakes.com.
From her charming Gingerbread house on Carlos Street, in Trinidad’s capital city, Meiling offered 15-minutes to reflect on mentoring Project Runway contestant Anya Ayoung-Chee:
How and when did your mentorship of Anya begin?
“I’ve known Anya even before she was born, since her mother has been a close friend and loyal customer for many years. Anya is like a daughter to me and nothing pleased me more when I saw her interest in fashion. When she returned from studying graphic design at Parsons in New York, she gravitated to a natural passion for fashion and her second home became my atelier. She has been privy to my creative design process and she has always been open to advice and guidance.”
A fashion design apprentice should possess the mix of what personality traits and skills?
“It has often been said that to succeed in anything, you need one-third talent, one-third skill and one-third discipline. The most successful interns I’ve had are the ones who are open to embracing new experiences as an opportunity to learn and grow. Whether they are asked to sew a hundred flowers on a dress, assist in a model photo shoot or attend a fitting, they must do it all in a spirit of enthusiasm and readiness. The ones who think they are ‘above’ sorting out a box of buttons or feel they are better than the seamstresses, quickly fall by the wayside.”
Did Anya resist your advice to learn to sew or is it something emerging designers can work around?
“Anya is a very talented designer but as she admitted, her one weakness was the lack of technical experience in sewing. I stress experience, not skill because as a designer she would still be able to recognize quality workmanship and be able to hire staff to create her designs. However, not knowing how a garment is constructed or understanding the jargon in the industry in order to get her ideas across to a seamstress would be a handicap. All the great designers, such as Alexander McQueen, were also great couturiers in their own right.”
Recent collections by Meiling. Photos: SeanDrakes.com
What’s the likely domino effect from Anya’s participation on Project Runway?
“I would hope, firstly, that PR would open many doors for Anya and people would see what an incredibly talented Trinidadian designer she is. Secondly, it can also open up new avenues for other Trinidadian and Caribbean designers since this show will definitely perk up interest in designers of the region. I have been mentoring many young women and men for several years and my door has always been open to up-and-coming designers, photographers, models, stylists and writers in the industry. I welcome the opportunity to work with new applicants since they will be the ones to sustain the industry.”
Describe the common threads that connect your aesthetic and Anya’s?
“I think the common thread with Anya is an understanding that fashion must be relevant to the times. It is important to be aware of current and future influences and to incorporate them into your designs. This has been one of the truths I stress to all my interns. In terms of an aesthetic, I was very proud to behold the top of Anya’s first [Project Runway] outfit which had a surprising T-back. I believe that the rear of an outfit should always be interesting since people see your back just as much as your front. It is one of my signature looks, especially in my wedding dresses. I was thrilled to see when Anya pulled that look out from her years of working in my atelier to shine under such a stressful first challenge.”
MORE ON MEILING:
Meiling. Photo: SeanDrakes.com
The Meiling brand has been in existence for over 30 years, the philosophy is simply “less is more”. My trademark designs are deceptively simple looking but with great attention to detail. My customer is a woman who is comfortable in her own skin. She does not need to bare it all to be sexy, and has the confidence to stand out from the crowd in simple elegance. She loves fun, occasional whimsy and does not take herself too seriously. However, she does appreciate and can recognize quality in fabric, cut, fit and workmanship.
© SEAN DRAKES
[ 404.654.0859 | SEANDRAKESPHOTO@gmail.com ]
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“I was an accidental tourist,” recaps Anthony Reid of his first encounter with women’s wear designer Meiling . “The association with Meiling grew out of me running an errand for her in New York in 1996.” That led to an invite to her show. One of his brutal and honest critiques of a Meiling collection made its way to her ears. She responded by asking Reid to ‘come see the next collection before it’s shown and offer ideas.’ Soon he was styling for Meiling. He says he was “humbled and magnified” by Meiling’s gesture.
Anthony Reid menswear shot at Erotic Art Week TT. Photos: SeanDrakes.com
A decade later, Reid, a flight attendant since 1991, is also a designer apprentice. “Four years ago [Meiling] encouraged me to step onto the ramp to say this is who you are,” reveals Reid. They’re now a dynamic fashion duo. Their process: Reid distills his collection from the essence of Meiling’s women’s line, and they often show in immediate succession. Reid builds his brand on exquisite tailoring and select fabrics, and embellishments are rendered with ribbon, intricate stitching or layered fabrics.
The other breakout apprentice from the Meiling camp is Anya Ayoung-Chee. She launched her Pilar label in 2009 with a youthful, vibrant and afrocentric collection influenced by the Bobo Shanti. For her sophomore collection, Anya trained her eye on uniformity. This collection melds the functionality and notions attached to conventional, rigid and loose-fit uniforms to “make a statement about uniformity and what uniformity is about,” explains Anya.
Bobo Shanti-influenced collection by Anya Ayoung-Chee. Photos: Sean Drakes.
“I grew up with this idea that you must wear jeans and a tank-top to go to the mall,” shares Anya, a native of New York based in Trinidad. Her mission is to challenge the encoded dress code. “I am committed to informing Caribbean women that there is no need to dress by occasion.” She designs clothes that are separates with multiple applications, “it’s the essence of what I am trying to do to encourage individuality.”
Anya's inaugural collection at Fashion Week Trinidad 2009. Photos: SeanDrakes.com
“I’ve had the extreme benefit of having Meiling as a mentor, she’s been my foundation when it comes to figuring out the process. She doesn’t steer me creatively [and] she’s extremely open,” attests Anya who has a degree in graphic design. “If Fashion Week TT can mimic that…maybe a mentorship program is something they could look into. I stand to shoot myself in the foot when I say this, I think the standard for entry (into FWTT) has to be strict. If I apply this year and get rejected because of certain standards, then there should be programs or resources to help you figure out how to go from A to B to C.”
Designs from Anya's 2010 collection, shot at Erotic Art Week. Photos: SeanDrakes.com
Anya encourages established designers to realize the value of giving back. “It’s very important that they open their doors to young designers, the most important contribution to the industry is their knowledge and experience.”
Crystal + Anya. Photo: SeanDrakes.com
“My inspiration continues to be drawn from [the streets],” says Anya. “The Sartorialist has made street fashion, the fashion! What he was seeing is what I’m seeing, but I’m seeing it in an environment where it’s not cognitive. As opposed to the streets of Manhattan, Paris, Milan and Tokyo where it’s entirely cognitive. At the same time, I remain committed to finding it where I’m from and merging it with elements I have the opportunity to see. Being on the streets of New York, Paris and Tokyo is always inspiring, but Trinidad continues to feed me with the best material I could ask for.”
Last night the edgy and exotic former beauty queen stitched her ass off in the first challenge of Project Runway season 9 on Lifetime, and secured a slot as a contender to watch. And eyeballs are glued to her. Anya’s Project Runway Facebook page has clocked 5,500 fans, while other contenders are yet to score 500. Perhaps viewers support Heidi Klum‘s faith in the apprentice who may be fashion’s rising star.
(This essay was updated and expanded on 8.1.11)
Erotic Art Week credits (from top left): Jerome wears black jumpsuit with hand-dyed hoody. Installation: “Cc: Everybody“ by Rodell Warner & Brianna McCarthy, shot at Brooklyn Bar. Pictured right: Keive wears black suit with base stitching paired with black and claret polka-dot shirt with pleated organdy trim, designs by Anthony Reid. Installation: “Mine“ by Chris Alexis, shot at Bohemia.
Denim half-corset with camouflage detail, silver triangle bra with velvet lining and black net circle shawl by Anya de Rogue, necklace and bracelet by Chejo. Installation by Lisa Moore for Lismoore Drapery & Interiors, shot at Alice Yard. Pictured right: Black net hoody and black triangle top bra by Anya de Rogue. Patterned pleated mini skirt by Pilar by Anya. Makeup: Kirk Thomas. Installation: “selfphone” by Palaver Pachenko Machocher George & Nadella Riley.
Erotic Art Week in Trinidad, curated by choreographer Dave Williams, is an art festival conceived by visual and performing artists to provoke exploration and discussion of sexual identities.
© SEAN DRAKES
[ 404.654.0859 | SEANDRAKESPHOTO@gmail.com ]
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